So You're a Platoon Commander! Comparing Chain of Command and Bolt Action
Hi GuysI've been meaning to do a comparison of these two rule systems for a considerable time but other things just simply get in the way, like other projects (Commissions, my ongoing La Haye Sainte project, painting 100s of Perry Miniatures, and building lots and lots of terrain,..).
Well finally here it is.
Now before I start I just want to say that I'm looking at the two systems through the eyes of a soldier (Artilleryman) of 33 years service (both in a pure training environment and operationally).
Yes, I know they are both 'Games' and playability and pure enjoyment must sit at the top of the list, but some level of realism must in my opinion be evident, otherwise why not simply play Warhammer Fantasy?
I've played about 5 games now of both systems and found both to be enjoyable and challenging.
One system was however MORE challenging, realistic and for me personally, enjoyable.
So let's look at each systems.
BELOW: A Brit Airborne 6 Pdr covering down a road somewhere in Holland.
Bolt Action (BA) is produced by Warlord Games and works on a system where for each Squad (or Section), AFV, Artillery Piece, vehicle or small team (Artillery Observer for example) you and your opponent get one 'Command Die'. All the dice go into a single opaque container and are drawn randomly. As a die comes out the owner of that die can issue 1 of 6 different commands (RUN, ADVANCE, FIRE, AMBUSH, RALLY, DOWN) to his troops as he sees fit. Very suspenseful stuff!
Produced by Too Fat Lardies, Chain Of Command (CoC) works much differently.
Depending on the Quality of your force you get to roll 4 (poor quality) 5 (Regular or standard quality) or 6 (Elite or hardened well trained Veterans).
At the start of your turn you roll your allocated dice.
For each 1 you roll you can activate a small team
For a 2 a Section together with its leader
For a 3 a Section Commander (Leader) with his Section
For a 4 a senior leader such as the Platoon Sergeant, (if you have one) or the Platoon Commander)
A roll of a 5 goes towards building up CoC die, and once you have one of these then there are all sorts of options open to you, like declaring an ambush, interrupting an opponents move, relocating a sniper team, to mention just some.
A 6 is a 'Phasing' Die and let's just say multiple 6s are a good thing.
Pre Game Preparation
In Bolt Action (BA) you select or dice for a scenario, set up and play
In Chain of Command (CoC) you select or dice for a scenario and then enter what is called the 'Patrol Phase'. This is like a mini game within the larger game.
It represents scouts or recon patrols probing ahead of your main force and establishing what is referred to as Jump Off Points (JOP).
It is from these JOPs your troops enter the table, and the loss of which can have catastrophic consequences.
BELOW:CoC at CANCON 2014
It's a fixed distance in BA.
For example Infantry run 12 inches without firing or 6 inches if the wish to move AND then fire. Terrain will obviously have effects on movement but you KNOW how far your boys will move FOR CERTAIN.
In CoC it's variable, based on moving one D6 if moving tactically, maintaining a low profile for example, (maybe they are leopard crawling or monkey running).
Normal movement is 2D6 or 1 D6 to move AND fire, (or fire and then move)
"At The Double," 3D6 is a pell-mell 'Rush' and pick up some disorder for your trouble!
So in other words each individual Section / Squad will move as they see as appropriate depending on whether or not the Section Commander or Squad Leader has told them to "keep low lads"! or "Move it boys"!
This seems more realistic to me.
In BA you can't really coordinate arms with any real certainty.
Here's an Example:
Let's say one of my dice is drawn. I decide to move my Stug III
Then one of my dice is drawn again so I move my Squad behind the Stug III. Excellent!
But I can only move my Stug III and my squad in the same phase IF I get two Die drawn in succession. If this doesn't happen the insane situation can arise where the Stug roles on down the road, leaving the dim witted infantrymen standing in the middle of a perfect firing lane just begging to be blown away.
Now obviously you can increase your chances to coordinate movement by 'counting the dice' as they come out of the bag, and waiting until you know that you have more dice in the bag than the other guy, but this might never happen (particularly if the bad guys have more dice than you due to being of cheaper 'stock')
BELOW: A PzIII in North Africa
In CoC I can quite easily move my AFV down the road with my supporting infantry section right behind it (for cover) or either side of it (protecting it from enemy with Anti-tank weapons)
And to do this SHOULD be easy.
It's my phase of turn 2.
I have regular US Armoured Infantry (5 Command Dice)
I roll and get 3, 2, 3, 5, 6
The 6 means next 'Phase' is the Italians (my opponents)
The 5 means I've scored one CoC Die! (Only 5 to go).
I use the one of the 3s to get my SGT to put my MMG 'Team' on Overwatch.
I use the other 3 to order my M4 Sherman tank down the road (the MMG is coving its movement in case any Italian Paratroopers with a Panzerfaust pop up) and I use the 2 to have a Squad of infantry move normally behind the tank.
The infantry might not be right up behind the tank,.. But they won't be simply left 12 inches behind.
Let's look at Ambushing
Ambushes in BA aren't true ambushes.
"Holy cow! Where did they come from"?
In other words they are really just in Overwatch.
The Ambush order in BA still leaves the ambushers in plain sight on the table.
I can see you, and if I can see you I can engage you, therefore you're not 'in ambush'.
There are rules in BA covering 'Hidden Troops', but for reasons I can't quite understand they are still deployed on the table in plain sight.
The bonus for them is it's virtually impossible to actually hit them if shot at!
They lose that bonus if infantry or Recce vehicles approach within 12 inches or other things happen,....
In CoC a Anti Tank team can suddenly appear literally 'out of nowhere' and attempt to put a shaped charge into the side of your tank!
This is done by utilising a CoC dice (remember,.. Rolling '5's accumulates these and once I have scored six '5's I gain one CoC Die) and deploying a small team anywhere within 12inches of a 'Jump off' point but NOT within 6 inces of enemy infantry (they would have acquired the ambushers within that range).
Consequently I see a Sherman moving across a field within 18 inches of one of my JOP so I declare I'll stage an ambush! I discard my CoC die and place a Panzerfaust team I've held off table for just such an opportunity. Fritz is placed behind a hedge 3 inches from the Sherman and fires!
In CoC it's not wise to have AFVs moving around unsupported by the foxhounds!
Oh, and you better have some troops in 'Overwatch' covering your armour
Close Air Support
Air support in CoC is something totally random and I'm fine with that.
The forces in play in these Skirmish level games really shouldn't simply call up a P47 Thunderbolt. Sorry,... Those assets are held at Battalion or higher level. Probably DIVISIONAL!
Admittedly your force really could be the tip of the spear and yes, at battalion level the FAC needs to be placed somewhere, but that somewhere is usually Battalion Tac Hq or with a Company Commander and maybe he's been sent off with a platoon,..
In BA you can obtain a FAC. Fair enough
When you go into close combat in BA any 'pin' markers (which simulate the 'Shock' or 'Suppression' troops are enduring) are removed!
ALL of them!
Like a wise section commander you've been working like a demon to win the firefight before committing to the hand to hand stuff but now as the entrenching tools and bayonet work is about to start the enemy suddenly finds his guts and fights!
Everyone is now a hero,...
All the shock you've applied is now for naught,...
Now obviously there is an element of what I've just mentioned (guys throwing up their hands or simply refusing to fight) taking place and the 'results' will be seen in the final outcome of the hand to hand combat.
It's simply abstracted into the results.
Hand to Hand is usually not simultaneous in BA,...
If your unit has been activated and you're in the 'open' then there is little chance you'll be able to fight back as the attacker will mete out his hits before you do. Only if you have some guys still standing can you reply.
I just don't like the fact that unless your defenders are behind an obstacle they don't fight simultaneously with their attackers.
There appears to be more abstraction taking place in BA to simplify the game and that's ok by me. Game design is always a compromise between realism and playability.
In CoC in almost all circumstances both sides fight EXCEPT in the situation where one side has an advantage in combat dice of 4 to 1 or greater.
In that case the weaker side routs immediately in a terrible state of shock!
Otherwise it's brutal and it's possible both participants can be wiped out,.. As it should be.
Close Combat in CoC, (like most things) is slightly more complex than in BA.
Small Arms Firepower:
In CoC a German MG 42 generates 8 dice which is over half the sections Firepower
In BA it generates 4 dice less then half!
That speaks volumes (pardon the pun) about both sets of rules!
In CoC the Machine Gun is king!
Well at least as far as the Germans are concerned. Looking at a German infantry section you soon see that the section is built around the MG34/42.
But looking at a Brit section you see manoeuvre is the name of the game, with the Bren not providing as much punch.
Consequently the Platoon Commander in CoC is better off playing his sections historically.
The German trying to dominate with his excellent LMGs (often by 'Attaching' the Section Commander to the LMG team to add extra dice) and the Brit relying on manoeuvre and the excellent accuracy of the Bren to target specific teams within the enemies forces.
BELOW: German Infantry with PINS or SHOCK
In BA when you score a hit on the enemy, whether it be one hit or several you only inflict 1 pin marker.
To be fair, if you inflict 50% or more casualties you do trigger a 'Do or Die' moral test.
By contrast in CoC you might not cause any actual casualties when you engage an enemy section squad or team but you may inflict so much 'shock' on them they become paralysed or even break in flight!
In BA you start with Teams or Sections / Squads, (which can be as big or as small as you wish within certain parameters). During game play you can't form a 'Team' from a 'Section'. For example, a section commander can't order his scouts to move to the intersection and check out that area, or send his Bren team off to a far flank.
Now you could I guess work around this by creating your sections / squads using two dice per squad. That us to say one die for 1 NCO with a SMG and 4 riflemen and another for a LMG team of 1 NCO and 4 men (2 manning a LMG) thus creating your German Squad. In effect 2 dice per section / squad, but that creates other issues and still leaves you with two independent 'teams' that might not be able to coordinate their movement and can't merge and split as the Squad leader desires.
In CoC this is possible. The Section command can splinter of small teams to perform tasks and then reconstitute his section, just as in reality.
As a platoon commander you and your sections have that tactical flexibility in CoC. You don't in BA.
Orbats or 'Lists':
Bolt Action lists look to me like something out of Warhammer 40k.
Seriously, you can 'pick n mix' pretty much to your hearts content.
You don't select historically accurate sections or squads in BA. Rather you 'Purchase' teams of about 5 men (on average I'd say) or teams that you can increase to proper squad strengths. As noted this can create a situation where you could conceivably create a squad or section consisting of 10 men with TWO Command Dice.
Games could well be decided by who can throw together the 'gamyest' order of battle rather than who possessed the best tactical grasp of what's going on.
CoC lists detail the specifics of each platoon type and then give that platoon a force 'Rating' which goes toward indicating what 'Support' options you can choose.
Anything from (for the British Motor Platoon in 1944) a single 'Sticky Bomb' or some barbed wire to a Churchill Crocodile Tank with a Junior Leader!
CoC lists drive you toward historically accurate orders of battle (Orbats) and support options.
Both rules sets allow for some limited 'National Characteristics'.
As viewed through a Periscope, (handy for 'TRUE Line Of Sight' games like CoC and BA)
A Brit Cromwell tank comes undone AND "Don't bunch up boys"!
Both systems will provide you with an enjoyable challenging game.
Both systems are well supported.
But here's one of my bigger gripes with BA,...
The poorer (points wise cheaper) quality your troops are the more troops (and as a consequence) 'Command dice' you'll get!
This is crazy as it supposes the worse your troops are the more likely you are to gain the initiative.
In CoC the better your troops the more dice you get and the more likely you are to gain the initiative and the better your Command and Control is.
For game balance in CoC the Green Troops will either gain more support options or lessen their opponents support options.
Warlord Games have been churning out plenty of Army Lists and for about $40 a book you can buy them, and they are very nice books indeed with lots of great Osprey Publishing illustrations.
There are lots of podcasts supporting BA also.
Too Fat Lardies also gave done a good job in supporting Chain of Command with two RULES Supplement!
Big CoC focuses on having a Tank or Assault Gun force as the basis of your command and At The Sharp End provides rules for playing a campaign!
There is also three (at this time) mini campaign books:
All army lists are FREE for download from the TFL forum and they have lists covering not just WW2 but also the Spanish Civil War!
There are moves afoot to produce a modern version of CoC called 'Fighting Season' and a WW1 variant is also available.
Both systems provide online video tutorials via YouTube
I HIGHLY recommend you watch both for an excellent introduction to both systems.
Hell. I could simply post both YouTube links and save myself all this writing,...
Here they are (grab a hot chocolate and a Tim Tam or two and enjoy):
Chain Of Command
Bolt Action has a huge following and finding someone to play against in most clubs certainly shouldn't be a challenge.
It's simplicity makes it ideal for introducing people to the period and I myself use BA to introduce youngsters to Wargaming.
If you want to have some fun, push some WW2 soldiers around a table and can live with some oddities then Bolt Action is great!
For me however Chain Of Command is much more challenging and realistic and it truly feels like I'm commanding a WW2 Platoon for only a very slight increase in complexity.
I really appreciate the effort the guys at TFL have gone to produce such a realistic yet elegantly simply system.
From experience I can tell you Chain Of Command is as close as you'll get to the real thing.
Here are some relevant LINKS:
The CoC Forum
Too Fat Lardies
The BA Forum
UPDATE: CoC is on SALE! 20% OFF for Sept 2015
Link here: http://toofatlardies.co.uk/blog/?p=5132
See also: Rail transport modelling scales, Miniature gaming figure scales, Miniature_wargaming § Scale, and Wargaming § Unit_or_map_scale
This is a list of scale model sizes, listing a variety of size ratios for scale models.
|Ratio||Inches per foot||Millimetres per foot||Comments|
|1:20000||0.015 mm||Arii produced injection-molded kits in this scale of the very large Zentradi spacecraft from the science fiction anime series Macross.|
|1:4800||0.064 mm||This scale has been used for fictional spacecraft for the board game Star Cruiser, originally from Citadel Miniatures.|
|1:3900||0.078 mm||Star Trek toys and miniatures are available in this scale.|
|1:3000||0.102 mm||Science fiction miniatures produced in this scale by Brigade Models for the board game Starmada and an established scale for Naval wargaming in Britain, e.g., NavWar.|
|1:2500||0.122 mm||A European size for naval wargaming ship models. Also a popular scale for large fictional spacecraft used in gaming, (esp. Star Trek).|
|1:2400||0.127 mm||A British and American size for naval wargaming ship models. Some science fiction miniatures in this scale.|
|1:2000||0.152 mm||Valiant Enterprises produces its "Fighting Sail" line of "sailing men o'war" and related subjects in this scale. Scale used in Japan for plastic Naval models, waterline and full hull.|
|1:1400||Die cast ship models (e.g. by Siku),Star Trek spaceships.|
|1:1250||0.244 mm||The dominant European size for ship models, most comprehensive range.|
|1:1200||0.254 mm||A British and American size for ship and harbour models. Airfix used to produce in this scale.|
|1:1000||0.305 mm||This is a scale used in Germany for pre-finished airliner models. Herpa and Hogan Wings produces several models in this scale. Bandai produces spacecraft models from Space Battleship Yamato 2199Ares Games produces the Sails of Glory line in this scale.|
|1:800||0.381 mm||This is a scale used for some aircraft carrier models. This scale is also used for some pre-finished die cast airliner models.|
|1:720||0.423 mm||This was a standard size for ship models produced by Revell and Italeri.|
|1:700||0.435 mm||This is the scale that Tamiya, Aoshima, Hasegawa, and Fujimi chose to produce the largest series of waterline plastic model ships and submarines. Later Skywave, Matchbox, Dragon and Trumpeter joined in.|
|1:600||0.508 mm||Popular for ships, especially liners and capital ships. This is the traditional scale for comparative drawings of ships, used by the Royal Navy as it is about one-tenth of a nautical mile to the foot. Warship models produced by Airfix. Schabak/Schuco also produces airliner models in this scale.|
|1:570||0.535 mm||This scale was used by Revell for some ship models because it was one-half the size of the standard scale for wargaming models used by the U.S. Army.|
|1:500||0.610 mm||This is a scale used by the military in World War II for ship models used for war games and naval recognition. Several Japanese companies such as Nichimo Co Ltd. and Fujimi Model produce plastic ship models in this scale. It is also used by European companies for pre-finished die-cast airliner models.|
|1:480||0.635 mm||T scale, using 3 mm gauge track to represent standard gauge railways.|
|1:450||0.677 mm||T scale, using 3 mm gauge track to represent 3 ft 6 in (1,067 mm) gauge railways. Hasegawa also produces plastic ship models in this scale.|
|1:432||0.706 mm||The scale used during World War II by the U.S. Navy for aircraft recognition.|
|1:400||0.762 mm||A European size for ship and submarine models and die cast aircraft. e.g. Heller products|
|1:350||0.871 mm||A Japanese size for ship models. These are typically full-hull models that are substantially more detailed than 1:700 waterline models.|
|1:300||1.016 mm||A scale closely associated with 1:285 scale. The smallest scale commonly used for micro armor. "6 mm figure scale" for miniature wargaming.|
|1:288||1.058 mm||A scale for aircraft and rockets.|
|1:285||1.069 mm||Also known as "6 mm figure scale", the U.S. Army scale for sand-table wargames. The standard used in hobbyist miniature wargaming, where it is considered interchangeable with 1:300 scale. Commonly used for micro armor.|
|1:250||1.219 mm||Used by Heller for model ships.|
|1:239||1.275 mm||Used by some model aircraft.|
|1:220||1.385 mm||Same as Z gauge.|
|1:200 scale||0.06″||1.524 mm||A scale used for high-end model aircraft and very detailed paper model ships. 9 mm figure scale. Many airlines distribute models in this scale for free as a means of advertising. Airplane model brands in this scale include Flight Miniatures, JC Wings 200, Wings of Glory, and others.|
|1:182.88||1.667 mm||A newer scale utilized in ancient, fantasy and sci-fi hobbyist miniature wargaming. Known as "10 mm figure scale" in wargaming circles.|
|1:160||1.905 mm||American and European model trains in N scale. Commonly used for mini armor. 10 mm to 12 mm figure scale for miniature wargaming.|
|1:152||2.005 mm||2mm scale / British N scale railway modeling.|
|1:150||2.032 mm||Used by Heller for model ships, and proposed by the Japanese to supersede 1:144 scale trains.|
|1:148||2.117 mm||British N model railroad scale.|
|1:144||1⁄12″ (0.083″)||2.117 mm||W scale - Popular for ships, aircraft, rockets, spacecraft. Occasionally used with NASCAR cars. Also some Japanese N scale trains, as well as Japanese giant robot models and toys. Dollhouse for a dollhouse scale for 1:12 dollhouses. Commonly used for mini armor. Used for 12 mm, and 12.5 mm figure scaleminiature wargaming.|
|1:128||3⁄32″ (0.094″)||2.381 mm||A few rockets and some fit-in-the-box aircraft are made to this size.|
|1:120||0.1″||2.54 mm||TT model railroad scale.|
|1:110||2.771 mm||Used for some model ships, aircraft and diecast cars.|
|1:108||2.822 mm||An historic size for ships, also used for rockets and spacecraft. 15 mm figure scale for wargaming is considered interchangeable with this scale.|
|1:100||3.048 mm||Kits of historic and modern spacecraft. Japanese aircraft, spacecraft, and giant robots. Also referred to as "15 mm figure scale" for use with the mini armor & miniature figurine-based tabletop strategy/skirmish warfare games, Flames of War, Axis & Allies Miniatures, as well as The Face of Battle, and I Ain't Been Shot Mum!.|
|1:96||1⁄8″ (0.125″)||3.175 mm||An historic scale for ships, also used for spacecraft.|
|1:91.44||3.333 mm||A popular scale for World War II hobbyist miniature wargaming. Also known as "20 mm figure scale" in wargaming circles.|
|1:90||3.387 mm||A scale proposed by some European manufacturers (e.g.Wiking) to supersede H0 scale.|
|1:87.1||3.5 mm||Exact HO scale (half O of 7 mm = 1 foot)|
|1:87||3.503 mm||Civilian and military vehicles. Often used to describe HO scale. Original nominal 25 mm figure scale; though a 6-foot human in 1:87 is closer to 20mm.|
|1:82||3.717 mm||An intermediate scale (HO/OO) intended to apply to both HO and OO scale train sets. Also used for some military models|
|1:80||3.810 mm||Tomytec made cars, buses and trucks in this scale. Very close to 20 mm figure scale in wargaming circles (20mm is actually 1:80.5).|
|1:76.2||4 mm||UK model rail scale 4 mm scale (OO Scale, etc.).|
|1:76||4.011 mm||Military vehicles. Used with 4 mm to 1 foot models as well.|
|1:75||4.064 mm||Used by Heller for model ships.|
|1:73.152||4.167 mm||Common hobbyist miniature wargaming scale for sci-fi games. There are also a large number of miniatures in this scale for fantasy & sci-fi wargaming and role playing games (RPGs) such as Striker, Gamma World and Classic Battletech RPG. This scale is popularized by Dungeons & Dragons, but there has been a scale creep over the years.|
|1:72||1⁄6″ (0.167″)||4.233 mm||Aircraft, science fiction, space non fiction, figures, vehicles, and watercraft. Now the most prolific small scale (i.e. less than 1:35) for plastic injection armored fighting vehicle (AFV) models, and also plastic model figurines and scale model vehicles and aircraft by companies such as Airfix. There is a growing popularity for scratch-built radio control model ships in this scale. More genres are covered in this scale than any other.|
|1:65||4.689 mm||Ships, die-cast cars. Similar to 1:64.|
|1:64||4.763 mm||Ships, die-cast cars. Matchbox and Hot Wheels use this scale to describe their vehicles, although the actual scale of the individual models varies from 1:55 to beyond 1:100. Same as S Scale. Also called 3⁄16 in. scale. Known as 25 mm figure scale in wargaming circles.|
|1:60.96||5.000 mm||Common scale for pre-1970s hobbyist miniature wargaming figures. Some companies such as Privateer Press are producing new figures in this scale. Because 28 mm figure scale wargaming miniatures have crept in scale over the years, these new "30 mm figure scale" wargaming miniatures are similar in proportion to the current 28 mm figure scale wargaming miniatures. Force of Arms, Westwind and s&s models also use this scale for their range of resin and metal World War II and modern 28 mm figure scale vehicles.|
|1:60||0.2″||5.080 mm||Used by Dungeons & Dragons Miniatures. A handful of high-detail, Japanese giant robot model kits primarily produced by Bandai are of this scale. Some Japanese toy manufacturers also produce aircraft toys in this scale. Rare model rail scale from Germany.|
|1:56||5.442 mm||Another common scale for 28 mm figure scale wargaming vehicles - manufacturers in this scale include Wargames Factory, Die Waffenkammer/JTFM Enterprises, NZWM/Army Group North, Force of Arms and Bolt Action.|
|1:55||5.644 mm||Used by Siku for cars and trucks. Also used by Mattel for Disney's "Cars" toys.|
|1:50||6.096 mm||Many European die-cast construction vehicles and trucks. Some early Japanese aircraft kits are also of this scale, and it is the standard scale for hand-crafted wooden aircraft models in Japan.|
|1:48||1⁄4″ (0.25″)||6.350 mm||For dollhouse applications, 1:48 is commonly known as quarter scale (as it is one-quarter of the 1:12 "standard" dollhouse scale). Mainly military aircraft, but in 2005 Tamiya launched a new series of armored fighting vehicle (AFV) models in this scale. It is the American O scale. Architectural model scale corresponding to widely used architectural drawing scale in the U.S. Also the main Lego scale, known as minifig scale. The rather uncommon 40 mm figure scale wargames figures fit approximately into this scale.|
|1:45||6.773 mm||This is the scale which MOROP has defined for 0 scale, because it is half the size of the 1:22.5 Scale G-gauge model railways made by German manufacturers.|
|1:43.5||7.02 mm||Exact O scale of 7 mm = 1 foot.|
|1:43||7.088 mm||Still the most popular scale for die-cast cars worldwide, metric or otherwise. It originates from British 0 scale.|
|1:40||0.3″||7.620 mm||The very early models of the British Coronation Coach and a few other horse-drawn wagons were made in this scale. Cheap soft plastic soldier figures are also made to this scale; there are a few kits to make vehicles for them.|
|1:36||8.467 mm||Popular scale for period ship plans — 1 inch = 3 feet.|
|1:35||8.709 mm||The most popular scale for military vehicles and figures. Used heavily by Verlinden Productions. It was originally conceived by Tamiya for convenience of fitting motorised parts and batteries. Corresponds well with 54mm figures.|
|1:34||8.965 mm||A popular scale for collecting vintage and modern American truck models. Established by First Gear, Inc. in the early 1990s with growing popularity in Europe and Australia.|
|1:33||9.236 mm||The most common scale for paper model kits of aircraft.|
|1:32||9.525 mm||Military vehicles; 54 mm figure scale toy soldiers are supposed to use this scale as well. Same as Gauge 1, cars, common for slot cars. Some aircraft (e.g. Matchbox/Revell). Commonly referred to as Stablemate size in model horses.|
|1:30.5||10 mm||Often quoted as the alternative to 1:32 scale.|
|1:30||0.4″||10.16 mm||Toy soldiers and military vehicles including King & Country and Figarti.|
|1:29||10.51 mm||American model trains running on 45 mm Gauge 1 track.|
|1:28||10.89 mm||Biplane fighters, "brass era" cars (Midori, Union, Revell of Germany), die-cast cars (Spec-cast, First Gear).|
|1:25||12.19 mm||Cars, figures. AMT (now combined with Ertl), Revell, and Jo-Han diecast cars. Chinese painted human figures in this scale are marketed for use with (but are slightly undersized for) G Scale train layouts, but are often used as passengers in 1:24 or 1:22.5 cars and trains. In Europe, this scale is preferred over 1:24. The Netherlands has whole toy villages in this scale. This scale is also standard in most theatre design models used to represent set designs before being built|
|1:24||1⁄2″ (0.5″)||12.70 mm||Cars, figures. Monogram made cars in this scale; Common scale for non-US companies including Tamiya. Some American dollhouse brands. Die cast vehicles by Danbury and Franklin Mint. American G Scale trains by Delton Mfg. and Aristocraft Classics. Model horses ("Little Bit" size).|
|1:22.5||13.55 mm||G Scale trains made by German manufacturers.|
|1:20||0.6″||15.24 mm||Cars, common for Formula One models.|
|1:19||16.04 mm||16mm scaleLive steam model railways. This is also the scale for those[which?] "four-inch" adventure movie figurines.|
|1:18||0.67″||16.93 mm||Cars made from kits, 1:18 scale diecast models, children's dollhouses. The G.I. Joe: A Real American Hero line of figures and vehicles is in this scale, although the figures are compatible with 1:16 vehicles rather than 1:18 cars.|
|1:16||3⁄4" (0.75″)||19.05 mm||Live steam trains (non-ridable), Figures. Ertl's popular line of farm and construction machinery is produced in this size. RC Tanks produced by Tamiya, Heng Long, Matto, AsiaTam, WSN, Torro, Scale model kits by Trumpeter, Eduard, Kirin|
|1:15||0.8″||20.32 mm||Used for some animal figures and automobile models.|
|1:14||21.77 mm||Tamiya Tamiya 56301 RC 1:14 King Hauler, RC Tractor Trucks 1:14 Scale.|
|1:13.71||22.225 mm||Model railway scratchbuilders’ scale at 7⁄8″ to a foot, commonly used with 45 mm gauge track to represent 2′ gauge prototypes.|
|1:13||59⁄64"||23.44 mm||Aurora "Monster Scenes" and "Prehistoric Scenes" Kits.|
|1:12||1″||25.40 mm||Action figures, Model cars (static and R/C driven), Live steam trains (non-ridable), dollhouses for adult collectors, motorcycles, model horses ("Classic scale").|
|1:10||30.48 mm||Motorcycles, Radio-controlled cars (off-road buggies, stadium trucks)|
|1:9||1.2″||33.87 mm||Motorcycles, Miniature park, model horses (traditional scale).|
|1:8||1 1⁄2″ (1.5″)||38.10 mm||Cars, motorcycles, Live steam trains (ridable), Miniature park, ICradio-controlled cars, Japanese garage kit figures, Aurora Classic Monster Kits|
|1:7||43.54 mm||Common scale utilized by Japanese companies for figures of anime characters, especially when the portrayed character is supposed to be young in age. The scale of a standard 4-stud × 2-stud Lego brick compared to the unit size of a standard house brick (9 × 4 1⁄2 × 3 inches).|
|1:6||2″||50.80 mm||EFRA regulation off-road radio-controlled buggies. Articulated figures, such as G.I. Joe, and Dragon, children's fashion dolls like Barbie, Dollfie, static display figures (commonly of anime characters), motorcycles, rail cannons, armored vehicles, military dioramas.|
|1:5||60.96 mm||Large scale radio-controlled cars|
|1:4||3″||76.20 mm||Radio-controlled cars, ridable miniature railways, steamrollers, traction engines, plastic model engines, larger collectible fashion dolls, pocketbike racing, Minibike, Mini chopper, Quarter Midget racing|
|1:3||4″||101.60 mm||P scale - ridable narrow gage park railroads, steamrollers, traction engines, Ball-jointed dolls, Super Dollfie, Dollfie Dream|
|1:2.4||5″||127.00 mm||Park railroads, where 15 in (381 mm) minimum gauge models are based on 3 ft (914 mm) narrow gauge prototypes|
|1:2||6″||152.40 mm||"My Size" (3′) fashion dolls|
|1:1||12″||304.80 mm||Full scale, life-size|